Two glasses, 19 years apart. Colheita Port is perhaps the closest one can get to the full single year Port experience without removing a significant wedge from the wallet. The fun doesn’t only reside with declared vintages however and tasting Krohn’s 82 and 01 side by side proves so.
Founded in 1865 by two Norwegians, the Krohn house boasts an unusual heritage, predominately shipping to Scandinavian and German markets rather than traditional British importers.
While Ruby, Tawny and LBV Ports are easy to come by, Colheitas are much rarer. Despite them routinely benefiting from a considerably longer sojourn, they must be matured in wood for at least seven years. It is not unusual for them to be bottled just before sale.
Partnering one against the other made for curious inspection. The 1982 was impressively complex; fruit, power but also the more mature edges of hazelnuts and raisins emmerged. It’s silky in the mouth, textured and balanced with delicate notes of ginger, fig and orange rind. A few more slaps of fruitcake reveal it is quite simply, Christmas in a glass.
The 2011 is no less festive. Just younger, more boisterous and devoid of those nutty nuances that come with time. Plum and raisin sit with lively acidity and the enveloping, spirited warmth. With 19 years apart the evolution fascinating.